Reduce, Reuse, Resell? The Ethics of Gen Z’s Thrifting Obsession

Thrifting is more popular than ever among college students

Although this sentiment has recently been called into question, Gen Z is commonly associated with being the most progressive generation in history. Not only is Gen Z, otherwise known as “Zoomers,” noted to have the most positive view of left-leaning causes in history, but they also identify as the most diverse generation in American history.

Among American Zoomers’ affinity for left-leaning causes and ideals, sustainability is a value shared by many among us, embodied by our intrinsic passion for environmentalism, frugality, and social egalitarianism - nevermind the toll incessant natural disasters exacerbated by climate change puts on the world, or the heightened political polarization and tensions nationwide, or the crushing weight of income inequality, wage stagnation, and the degradation of the “American Dream” coercing today’s youth to be more conscious of their budgeting.

Well, regardless of whether you attribute Zoomers’ sustainable mindset to be an intentional cultural shift away from the mainstream materialistic mindsets of our forefathers or a forced divergence from neoliberal-era norms indicative of worsening quality of life, it is indisputable that sustainability - one way or another – is a core value of our generation.

One manifestation of intentional sustainability in praxis among Zoomers is the recent increase in thrifting and buying second-hand. More than 8 in 10 Zoomers already do, and this novel way to shop is very much informed by our concerns for the planet and dedication to the pursuit of a more sustainable lifestyle.

Buying second-hand provides us with products - whether they are clothes, books, furniture, decor, or accessories - of inherently higher quality and durability and whose being purchased reduces our impact on the environment and supply chains.

In addition to thrift stores, many Zoomers also shop at smaller vintage or secondhand shops

We aren’t only in it for sustainability, either. Buying second-hand provides opportunities for individuals to develop their styles and means of self-expression, grants them places to hang out with friends and engage with community in a world increasingly deprived of such spaces, represents a countercultural, anti-establishment stance on the fashion industry and capitalism as a whole, and invokes a sense of novelty and curiosity as we browse aisles of clothes and furniture from brands no longer afloat, used and lived in by people with completely different experiences from ours. That jacket you thrifted last week? Someone could have had their first kiss wearing it years ago. 

It should come as no surprise that popular activities and interests among the younger cohorts of this country have come to influence and be influenced by social media and the internet - many Zoomers turn to apps like TikTok or Instagram for style inspiration when buying second-hand, for finding thrift stores or pop-ups, guides on how to upcycle, or, in the case of websites like eBay or Poshmark, to actually buy online.

Sounds great, doesn’t it? Nearly an entire generation is dedicated to making the world a more sustainable place, fostering community and shared experiences, and promoting self-expression. 

Well, maybe. 

Many attest that the popularity of thrifting and buying second-hand has resulted in the practice being co-opted by the very forces of materialism and consumerism it once vowed to dismantle. Trend cycles have now become inseparable from thrifting culture. Second-hand items’ price points allow for easy overconsumption and lead to higher prices. Resellers are profiting off of the culture’s mainstream success. 

As thrifting’s popularity soars, these resellers, whose virtual marketplaces and tangible pop-up thrift stores often replicate the idea and stylistic aspect of thrifting devoid of the positive community impact, sustainable sourcing, or lower price points, resell their thrifted items at a markup of three or even four times the price of the original piece. This model profits off of the once anti-capitalistic trend and, in the case of online resellers, offsets the carbon footprint reduction of buying second-hand by relying on shipping and internet servers to run their operations.

Additionally, many resellers and casual thrifters alike source clothing and items from stores intended to serve populations in need, creating another ethical issue. Many second-hand stores are located in lower-income communities in order to provide essentials at a lower cost than typical retail stores. It is because of this that many decry thrifting culture as unethical and classist, and this sentiment becomes even more problematic when resellers and thrifters grab items like winter jackets, beddings, and workwear, all of which are generally more necessary for the residents of said communities.

Depop’s business model - mixing social media with online marketplaces - attracts over 30 million registered users worldwide

In addition to the issues surrounding the ideals and construction of thrifting culture and sustainability, its explosion in popularity has not necessarily insulated it from the real-life negative impacts actualized by the consumerist culture it has come to replicate.

Overconsumption and price increases as a result of higher demand and quicker trend cycles have taken over the practice lately. Naturally, higher demand for thrifted clothes and items raises prices, which has slowly begun to make thrifting an exclusive practice for those who can afford it. The second-hand industry is creeping up on the fast fashion industry’s profit margins and is projected to be worth over $700 billion by 2030. 

As with all trends, predatory capitalist conglomerates have begun to prey on consumers’ passion for sustainability and frugality by offering in-store credit in exchange for donating second-hand items, or by offering repairs to their customers branded as ‘thrifty.’ This thinly veiled form of greenwashing profits off of sustainability-conscious consumers and does not represent the circular business model thrifting, at its simplest, promotes.

The idea of seeking out specific items or trendy pieces of clothing, paying prices sometimes tenfold that of their original price from resellers looting Goodwill Bins or the Salvation Army racks, and having the comfort of knowing you can resort to your phone or the mid-sized retailer down the street to replicate thrifting culture is, arguably, a revitalization of the capitalistic ethos of conformity and profit-driven business that the trend skirted before its popularity among the youth cohort.

This isn’t to say there is no way to thrift ethically, however. Buying second-hand is still significantly easier on the environment and your wallet still builds the same community and self-expression, and still makes for a more cyclical means of buying and ridding of clothes, accessories, and household items. 

Next time you’re at the thrift store, at the vintage pop-up, or scrolling Grailed, just be a little more conscious and a little more vigilant.